Iceland Expedition Cruise: What It’s Really Like with Quark Expeditions

If you’re anything like me, you’ve seen those photos of people in Quark’s bright yellow parkas and thought, one day, I reeeally want to wear one of those and go on an expedition.

Well, my one day finally arrived.

I’d heard great things about Quark Expeditions, but I still wasn’t entirely sure what life on an expedition ship would be like. I was picturing an old icebreaker, a tiny cabin with nowhere to put anything and a ship that was basically somewhere to sleep between adventures.

I was also travelling with my work colleague Tiff. We had only known each other for a few months and had never travelled together before, so twelve days sharing a cabin could have been an adventure in itself.

Thankfully, I had nothing to worry about.

There was nothing old or basic about the Ultramarine, and the ship quickly became part of the adventure. There were two helicopters on board, whales swimming past the restaurant windows and something new waiting every morning.

This wasn’t a traditional cruise, and that was exactly what I loved about it.

Dublin to Reykjavík

I had travelled from Australia to Dublin to spend some time with family, so I took the opportunity to fly from there to Reykjavík with Icelandair.

Our first stay was at the Reykjavík Marina, right on the harbour and within walking distance of the city. The hotel was funky and the rooms spacious, breakfast properly set us up for the day, and the hotel’s bar and restaurant offered two-for-one meals on Mondays and Tuesdays. Handy, especially when Iceland can be a tad on the expensive side.

Best of all, we could see the Ultramarine from the hotel the night before we boarded. Seeing it sitting in the harbour made us even more excited for what was ahead.

We spent our free day walking from Rainbow Street to Hallgrímskirkja, then on to Harpa Concert Hall and the Sun Voyager.

Naturally, we also tried Reykjavík’s famous Icelandic hot dog, the one Bill Clinton apparently ate. The difference? Fried onions. That is how I want my hot dogs from now on. Come to think of it, I’ll take fried onions on everything, please.

Top tip: The Flybus is an easy way to travel between Keflavík Airport and Reykjavík. Book a round trip, check which numbered bus stop is closest to your hotel and confirm your return pick-up at least 24 hours in advance.

Hotels in Reykjavík’s restricted city-centre area use designated bus stops rather than direct hotel drop-offs. I found it so easy, and it was a fraction of the price of a taxi.

First Impressions of the Ultramarine

First stop: the cabin. Our twin balcony room was modern, spacious and had more than enough storage for two people. The mattresses were excellent too. We were told expedition leader Jake personally tested them when the ship was being built. Well done, Jake.

Then came the Quark yellow parkas and the obligatory photos. We were so excited. The removable inner layer becomes a separate black jacket, while straps let you carry the outer layer when you warm up, which happens surprisingly quickly when you’re hiking towards a waterfall. They really have thought of everything. Snap!

That first welcome dinner set the tone. There was no assigned seating, nobody needed to dress up and we quickly found ourselves chatting with people from around the world. Relaxed, social and very easy-going. The food also deserves a mention. It was genuinely delicious, and the onboard hotel team, led by Darren, were brilliant. Warm, attentive and always one step ahead.

Each evening, we came together for a recap of the day and a briefing on what was ahead. Our Icelandic guide brought the local knowledge, joined by expedition experts in polar history, marine biology, glaciology and ornithology. It meant we understood so much more about what we had seen, rather than just looking at it.

One practical tip: Iceland’s summer daylight hours make the blackout blinds essential. Pack an eye mask too.

Lava Fields, Waterfalls and Hidden People

Our first expedition day took us across the lava fields of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, past waterfalls, an ice-capped mountain and a shipwreck.

It was also my introduction to Iceland’s troll folklore and belief in the “hidden people”. As an Irish person raised on stories of fairies, this felt very familiar.

The hike came in at around 16,000 steps. A proper walk, but very doable with a reasonable level of fitness and a great way to start the expedition.

That evening, our resident photographer Scotty shared a few tips before the Captain’s Welcome Dinner. Good timing, given how much Iceland was about to give us to point a camera at.

My First Helicopter Flight

The next day delivered one of the biggest moments of the trip: my first-ever helicopter ride. There were definitely nerves, or butterflies, depending on how brave I’m pretending to be. Tiff and I pulled on our flight suits and waterproofs, then took off directly from the ship to see Iceland’s fjords and glacier-carved valleys from above.

It took me straight back to geography class. Seeing something you learned about as a child, in real life, from a helicopter, is hard to beat. We even spotted whales from the air.Helicopters are officially my new favourite thing.

That afternoon, we headed out in a Zodiac, a small inflatable boat carrying around eight passengers and an expedition guide.

There were whale blows and tails slapping all around us, and then one breached right in front of the boat. Our friend Dave captured the photo of a lifetime and immediately became known as “Big Deal Dave”.

We finished the day with a wet Zodiac landing and a walk to Dynjandi waterfall. It was so powerful it sounded like a plane landing. Looking back at the Ultramarine anchored beneath the mountains was a proper pinch-me moment. The 30th of July is a day I won’t forget.

Puffins, At Last

At Látrabjarg, one of Europe’s largest bird cliffs, I saw puffins in the wild for the first time. They were close enough that we barely needed to zoom, although Tiff’s iPhone still managed to get the best photos. We couldn’t get enough of them, and neither could anyone else on the ship.

After a hike to the top of the cliffs, we visited a nearby town and learnt that the local swimming pool is often the social centre of an Icelandic community. It isn’t only about swimming; the hot tub is where locals catch up, and apparently you never know who might be sitting beside you.

The wildlife continued on Vigur Island, where traditional eiderdown farming is still practised. We saw more puffins, Iceland’s oldest windmill and sampled fermented shark, salmon on brown bread and rhubarb “marriage cake”.

Everyone else seemed to love the cake. Me? Not so much.

Later, we climbed to another waterfall in our muck boots, which felt like carrying an extra kilo on each leg. They definitely gave the legs a workout, but the climb was well worth it when we reached the top.

Crossing the Arctic Circle

On Grímsey, Iceland’s only inhabited island crossed by the Arctic Circle, we hiked to the monument marking it. It was a proper hike, but so rewarding when we reached the top. There was also a shorter option for anyone who didn’t fancy the full climb.

Coming down, we passed through the nesting grounds of Arctic terns.

They are fiercely protective and will swoop if you get too close, so we were told to hold a stick above our heads to redirect them.

Being shorter than Tiff, I used her as my human stick. We screamed like schoolgirls the whole way back.

Before returning to the ship, someone tipped us off about the local cod hot dog: fried Grímsey cod with capsicum, cucumber, garlic and jalapeño sauce. Let me tell you, well worth the detour.

The Landscapes Just Kept Getting Bigger

The Diamond Circle meant a longer day on the bus, but the scenery made up for it.

We crossed landscapes that looked almost lunar before reaching Dettifoss, one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls, with rainbows stretching across the spray.

At Lake Mývatn, the geothermal landscape was incredible, although the sulphur smell gets right up your nose. We also encountered more troll-shaped rock formations. Iceland takes its folklore seriously, and by this point I was fully invested.

The Polar Plunge

At Skálanes Nature Reserve, a former homestead in Iceland’s east, we learnt about the area’s history and conservation work directly from the reserve’s director.

Then came the Polar Plunge.

There was music pumping, a crowd watching and absolutely no graceful way to change my mind. I was genuinely nervous, but once I was roped in, I just jumped. Cold? Very. Exhilarating? Absolutely. We were met with a warming shot as we climbed out. I would do it again, for sure. If you ever get the chance, go for it. The anticipation is worse than the plunge itself.

Unexpected Moments and Real Icelandic Weather

Not every favourite moment involved a helicopter, puffin or waterfall. In Djúpivogur, a local guide took us inside an abandoned cod-liver-oil tank now used as an arts space, where we were treated to a private opera performance. The acoustics were incredible. It was definitely not something I saw coming.

That evening, we had dinner with the group of friends we had made on board. The WhatsApp group is still active, which probably says more about the social side of the trip than I ever could.

Our final expedition day in Heimaey brought the weather I had expected from Iceland: proper wind and rain. I chose the 90-minute coastal walk rather than the volcano hike and took in the black-sand beaches, unusual rock formations and more puffins along the way. I also saw the entrance to the town cemetery, which became a famous image during the 1973 Eldfell eruption. At one point, only the top of its arch could be seen above the ash. After so many blue skies, it felt only fair that Iceland gave us one properly wet and windy day, and a very good excuse to head back to the ship.

Back to Reykjavík

After one last breakfast and plenty of goodbyes, everyone headed off in different directions. I stayed at Old Town Reykjavík for my final night and spent the afternoon wandering the city.

First, the famous cinnamon bun at Brauð & co. Then an Icelandic Street Food serving soup with free refills and waffles for dessert. A strong finish.

Top tip: If you are flying internationally, allow plenty of time at Keflavík International Airport. It can get very busy, particularly during peak periods.

So, Is Expedition Cruising for Me?

Short answer? Absolutely.

Before boarding, I didn’t know what to expect. Twelve days later, I had flown over glacier-carved fjords, watched a whale breach from our Zodiac, seen puffins in the wild and taken one very cold plunge, all while loving coming back to the Ultramarine at the end of each day.

The ship was a huge part of the adventure, and the people we met made it even better.

Would I do another expedition cruise? In a heartbeat. I think I may have found my new favourite way to travel.

Yellow parka calling? Tell us what you have in mind through our Plan a Trip page. We’ll take it from there.

The adventures, opinions and questionable decision to do the Polar Plunge are entirely mine. AI helped me wrestle a very large pile of notes into something worth reading, giving me more time to share the brilliant trips our team creates for our clients.